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Fit Comments and Corrections for Prototype Samples
Petal sleeve top with flounce
The front neck drop is too high. Increase front neck drop 1/2”.
The tulip sleeve length at outseam is too short. Increase 3/4”. Keep tulip sleeve length at inseam.
Must fix balance of this top. All the fullness of the main body is swinging forward. Pattern of main body is not balanced properly. Must pickup more at front side seams at side dart intake AND must do a “pick-up” at back by slashing through upper middle of back pattern and closing it off and adding that back because right now it is swinging forward. Also the peplum flounce is not full enough. Cut on more of a curve so it creates more fullness.
The tulip sleeve length at outseam is too short. Increase 3/4”. Keep tulip sleeve length at inseam.
Must fix balance of this top. All the fullness of the main body is swinging forward. Pattern of main body is not balanced properly. Must pickup more at front side seams at side dart intake AND must do a “pick-up” at back by slashing through upper middle of back pattern and closing it off and adding that back because right now it is swinging forward. Also the peplum flounce is not full enough. Cut on more of a curve so it creates more fullness.
Drop petal sleeve top
Must increase the sleeve length of the center BACK petal part of sleeve by 3 1/2”.
Increase the measurement of bottom petal sleeve opening measured along the edge by 4”. This is a must. Sleeve opening is way too small.
Must increase the pleat depth for EACH pleat at the sleeve join by 1” each pleat.
Add heavy WOVEN interfacing (non-fusible) to the bottom petal part of sleeve with polyester taffeta dtm main body ground color lining.
Piping at bottom opening of sleeve should be corded, sample piping is too flat.
(When asked if the back looks okay in the second sample, I said no because of the drag lines in the bodice and sleeves. I was told that she was slouching, and I said she was not. I then said: add 1" to sleeve cap width, 1/2" to bicep (which is too tight), 1/4" to armhole drop, then slash armscye area and close that up about 1/2" front and back, then transfer excess to sides.
Increase the measurement of bottom petal sleeve opening measured along the edge by 4”. This is a must. Sleeve opening is way too small.
Must increase the pleat depth for EACH pleat at the sleeve join by 1” each pleat.
Add heavy WOVEN interfacing (non-fusible) to the bottom petal part of sleeve with polyester taffeta dtm main body ground color lining.
Piping at bottom opening of sleeve should be corded, sample piping is too flat.
(When asked if the back looks okay in the second sample, I said no because of the drag lines in the bodice and sleeves. I was told that she was slouching, and I said she was not. I then said: add 1" to sleeve cap width, 1/2" to bicep (which is too tight), 1/4" to armhole drop, then slash armscye area and close that up about 1/2" front and back, then transfer excess to sides.
Pink top with bow
Also the back is longer than the front on body so it is not balanced properly. the bottom opening should be parallel with the floor but this sample is hiking at center front making the bottom go on an angle upward toward center front when looking at garment from side. Must fix.
Red top with ruffle
Add 1” to body length.
The collar bottom ruffle height is too tall. Reduce bottom ruffle height 1/4”.
The collar middle red band is too tall. Reduce red collar band height 1/4”.
The collar bottom ruffle height is too tall. Reduce bottom ruffle height 1/4”.
The collar middle red band is too tall. Reduce red collar band height 1/4”.
Military Blazer with Leg of mutton sleeve
Increase collar height 1/2”
Increase center front length 1 1/2” and blend to “0” at side seams.
MUST increase the front panels AT CENTER FRONT of front panels so that they only have a 3/4” distance between them at center front. Currently the center front panels are way too spread out. Need to add fabric to the front panels. This is a big deal.
Increase bicep/muscle 3/4” flat, 1 1/2” full circumference.
Increase elbow 3/8” flat, 3/4” full circumference.
Keep waist measurement as sample but increase sweep 1” flat so it flares more at bottom opening.
Make the fold over laps at center front fold over more at top than bottom. It should be more of an angle.
Also buttons at lapel fold overs at center front should not be so close to fold over. Make sure to extend the fold over part to extend 1/4” more past where buttons are.
Increase center front length 1 1/2” and blend to “0” at side seams.
MUST increase the front panels AT CENTER FRONT of front panels so that they only have a 3/4” distance between them at center front. Currently the center front panels are way too spread out. Need to add fabric to the front panels. This is a big deal.
Increase bicep/muscle 3/4” flat, 1 1/2” full circumference.
Increase elbow 3/8” flat, 3/4” full circumference.
Keep waist measurement as sample but increase sweep 1” flat so it flares more at bottom opening.
Make the fold over laps at center front fold over more at top than bottom. It should be more of an angle.
Also buttons at lapel fold overs at center front should not be so close to fold over. Make sure to extend the fold over part to extend 1/4” more past where buttons are.
Floral Gray Jacket
Increase front neck drop 1/2”
Increase sleeve length at outseam 3/4”, do not change inseam. Sleeves are hiking.
Reduce side seam length of flounce 1 1/2” , keep center front and center back length of flounce.
Increase body length of main body 1”
Reduce scale of print by 30%
Shirring at flounce is inconsistent, please try to do a better job of making even.
Increase sleeve length at outseam 3/4”, do not change inseam. Sleeves are hiking.
Reduce side seam length of flounce 1 1/2” , keep center front and center back length of flounce.
Increase body length of main body 1”
Reduce scale of print by 30%
Shirring at flounce is inconsistent, please try to do a better job of making even.
pink and gray gradient dress
increase front neck drop by 1/2”
Turn seam allowance down at neck add 1/8” top stitch around neckline
Increase CB collar stand height 1/4”
Bodice is way too short. Right now it is too high up on the bust.
Bodice is way too tight. Make the waist width 40 inches full circumference
Sleeves are at an angle at the bottom openings. Please make it straight.
Add 1” to center front bodice length. Add 2 1/2” to bodice length at side seams. Add 2 1/2” to center back bodice length.
shorten the dress skirt length. It is way too long.
Turn seam allowance down at neck add 1/8” top stitch around neckline
Increase CB collar stand height 1/4”
Bodice is way too short. Right now it is too high up on the bust.
Bodice is way too tight. Make the waist width 40 inches full circumference
Sleeves are at an angle at the bottom openings. Please make it straight.
Add 1” to center front bodice length. Add 2 1/2” to bodice length at side seams. Add 2 1/2” to center back bodice length.
shorten the dress skirt length. It is way too long.
green jacket
Add 1” to body length.
Green jacket seams are puckering due to bad sewing. Must fix drag lines. Add to piping cut length to fix this issue.
Also add 1” full circumference to the chest, waist, and bottom opening.
The tails of the bows are too long. Reduce 1.25” to tail length.
Sleeve length is too short and is not balanced. Sleeves are hiking at outseam. Must add 1.5” to sleeve length at sleeve outseam by adding 3/4” to sleeve cap height, and adding 3/4” to sleeve outseam length at bottom. Then add ONLY 3/4” to sleeve inseam. Sleeve cap height is too short.
The zipper does not look great in that metal color for this style. change it to dtm color of the body or a black zipper.
Green jacket seams are puckering due to bad sewing. Must fix drag lines. Add to piping cut length to fix this issue.
Also add 1” full circumference to the chest, waist, and bottom opening.
The tails of the bows are too long. Reduce 1.25” to tail length.
Sleeve length is too short and is not balanced. Sleeves are hiking at outseam. Must add 1.5” to sleeve length at sleeve outseam by adding 3/4” to sleeve cap height, and adding 3/4” to sleeve outseam length at bottom. Then add ONLY 3/4” to sleeve inseam. Sleeve cap height is too short.
The zipper does not look great in that metal color for this style. change it to dtm color of the body or a black zipper.
Green flower dress
increase front neck drop by 1/2”
Turn seam allowance down at neck add 1/8” top stitch around neckline
Across front (5” down from HPS) reduce 1/2”
Change to an Exposed zipper
Reduce sleeve length at sleeve inseam 1”
Reduce sleeve outset 1/2”
Increase shirring at sleeve cap by 25%
Must cut CF bodice without skewing
Currently it is skewing (pattern flower)
Must line up bottom row of flowers with waist seam
CB bodice above waist has drag lines must correct
This velvet fabric has high amount of stretch do not need to much curve at hips
Side slit at bottom of skirt is making a “U” shape, this must be sharp “V” at top of slit
Binding around slit must be cut on bias not straight grain
Binding should be black not flower
Binding at top of slit must be mitered.
Reduce bottom opening 1 1/4” flat
Reduce skirt length 2”
Keep slit length
Do not reduce slit
Increase CB collar stand height 1/4”
2” down from waist: add a seam all the way around skirt so it looks like a band.
Reduce scale of floral print by 50%, flowers are too big
Turn seam allowance down at neck add 1/8” top stitch around neckline
Across front (5” down from HPS) reduce 1/2”
Change to an Exposed zipper
Reduce sleeve length at sleeve inseam 1”
Reduce sleeve outset 1/2”
Increase shirring at sleeve cap by 25%
Must cut CF bodice without skewing
Currently it is skewing (pattern flower)
Must line up bottom row of flowers with waist seam
CB bodice above waist has drag lines must correct
This velvet fabric has high amount of stretch do not need to much curve at hips
Side slit at bottom of skirt is making a “U” shape, this must be sharp “V” at top of slit
Binding around slit must be cut on bias not straight grain
Binding should be black not flower
Binding at top of slit must be mitered.
Reduce bottom opening 1 1/4” flat
Reduce skirt length 2”
Keep slit length
Do not reduce slit
Increase CB collar stand height 1/4”
2” down from waist: add a seam all the way around skirt so it looks like a band.
Reduce scale of floral print by 50%, flowers are too big
brown pants
Start the pleat 2” lower and then when you do that you can reduce the thigh a little bit because I am seeing drag lines at back thigh.
wrap pleated skirt
Increase waist width 1/2” flat (1” full circumference)
Reduce Center front length by removing 1” from the top of the skirt, currently it is sitting too high up on the body. I want this to hit around belly button level.
Move back darts towards Center back 3/4” each side which will make them 1 1/2” closer together
Reduce dart length 3/4”
Check dart angle. I am seeing drag lines and puckering.
Wearer’s left front pleat (the pleat that has the frog closures) is going on too much of an angle as it goes down to the bottom. Please transfer pleat seam at bottom towards Center front 1 1/2” and blend to zero up at top of waist.
Do not do 1/4” double turn hem for this skirt. I need the hem to be 1” blind stitch hem, clean finished inside.
Reduce Center front length by removing 1” from the top of the skirt, currently it is sitting too high up on the body. I want this to hit around belly button level.
Move back darts towards Center back 3/4” each side which will make them 1 1/2” closer together
Reduce dart length 3/4”
Check dart angle. I am seeing drag lines and puckering.
Wearer’s left front pleat (the pleat that has the frog closures) is going on too much of an angle as it goes down to the bottom. Please transfer pleat seam at bottom towards Center front 1 1/2” and blend to zero up at top of waist.
Do not do 1/4” double turn hem for this skirt. I need the hem to be 1” blind stitch hem, clean finished inside.
Yellow Puffer
increase across shoulders 1”.
Increase chest 1”
Increase waist at cinched waist area by 2”
Increase bottom opening 1”.
Increase body length 2” by adding 2” only to the bottom panel below the cinched wait seam. Do not change waist placement. For a puffer this looks too short.
Increase chest 1”
Increase waist at cinched waist area by 2”
Increase bottom opening 1”.
Increase body length 2” by adding 2” only to the bottom panel below the cinched wait seam. Do not change waist placement. For a puffer this looks too short.
Yellow trench
Lower the shoulder overlay pieces increase length 2”
Increase width by 1” closer to center front
Increase front neck drop by 1” and a half which also lowers front top button down 1 1/2” and makes the lapels 1 1/2” longer as well
Lower pockets 1”
Increase bottom opening full circumference 4” (2” flat)
Increase collar stand height 3/8”
Increase collar length along edge 1 1/4” (5/8” both sides)
Increase width by 1” closer to center front
Increase front neck drop by 1” and a half which also lowers front top button down 1 1/2” and makes the lapels 1 1/2” longer as well
Lower pockets 1”
Increase bottom opening full circumference 4” (2” flat)
Increase collar stand height 3/8”
Increase collar length along edge 1 1/4” (5/8” both sides)
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